YT-1000 ramp

YT-1000 ramp

Sunday, 23 September 2012

Electrobinocular build part 2




Before gluing the parts of the face plate together, I had to cut out the area where the visor support would go, making sure to leave enough of a gap for the visor itself. The visor support is made of ¾ inch MDF while the visor is made of 1/8th inch plexi glass. Here you can see the plexi visor which I bent on a strip heater. It’s a good idea to score the plexi with a carbide tip to help the plexi bend where you want it to. I also drilled holes for the screws using a drill press and filled and sanded any imperfections.

 

 The bump in the middle was made by pouring some plastic casting material into a mold I made of a ½ of a small rubber ball. I only filled the mold about 1/3rd, then cut of one edge and sanded it to fit. A drop of ZAP holds it in place.










The ribs are all cut from 2mm styrene and are wedge shaped from about 3mm down to 1.5mm, but this varies. I used my reference images to locate the location and length of each rib (approximately).
The ribs on the bottom side were the hardest to do as 6 of them had to be scribed to fit the bulb shapes, I did these first. The rest of them were pretty easy. Before gluing them down I made sure the bottom of each rib was flat and the top edge was slightly rounded.


 The ribs are all cut from 2mm styrene and are wedge shaped from about 3mm down to 1.5mm, but this varies. I used my reference images to locate the location and length of each rib (approximately).
The ribs on the bottom side were the hardest to do as 6 of them had to be scribed to fit the bulb shapes, I did these first. The rest of them were pretty easy. Before gluing them down I made sure the bottom of each rib was flat and the top edge was slightly rounded.

Some scraping was necessary after they were installed to get them to look just right.













 I built this part by stacking up layers of styrene discs, a cone from a model rocket, styrene strips and a wood screw. The black ring was cut on my lathe from the ABS plumbing union used for the lens. The originals were made from a few parts taken from a model V8 engine kit. The local hobby shop had the kit, but for $80 I chose to make my own.

 MDF is very easy to carve, so cutting out the square indents on the face plate was pretty easy. I cut it about an 1/8th of an inch deep then cut a piece of styrene to place in the hole.











 I found these rubber bumpers to use for the buttons.










 The parts here make up the eye pieces, a union coupling from an irrigation supply store was shortened and a short section of thin walled irrigation pipe was cut to fit inside the union. A styrene disc and the turned part were then placed on top of the short piece of pipe.








 Here is the adjustment knob (or whatever it’s supposed to be). I scratch built it from styrene.












 
And all the parts together.